Got hold of a used Korg Volca Beats recently, but soon discovered that the snare wasn't very nice... at all. Did some online searches and I soon found out about the missing capacitor C78!
A quick stop at ELFA to pick up some 100nF Ceramic Capacitors and a bit of soldering did the job, and the snare got much better sounding!
Unfortunately I accidentally destroyed one of the soldering points on the board, so I had to attach one leg of the cap to a component just beside it. Also got too close to one of the pots (Hat grain) with the soldering iron, melting it a bit... and I had read some warnings from someone online who did the same thing. Oh well. It wasn't that bad after all.
My main goal was to have a switch for the capacitor to be able to select the original sound, and also to add a MIDI Out port, but as ELFA didn't have these components at the shop I just bought the caps.
Will do the MIDI Out mod some other time.
Cheers!
Monday, March 20, 2017
Wednesday, March 1, 2017
Reason Tips & Tricks - Stereo / Mono input switch
In an earlier post I made an External / Internal source input switch to go in the default Reason template. This is an alteration to that patch, which adds a Stereo / Mono input switch, useful when sampling a mono instrument and removes the need to fiddle with the cables in the back of the rack.
You can download the "mrfprod_Default.reason" file here or follow the instructions below.
My default patch uses the A/B Audio & CV Switch and the ReMark Rack Divider, both which can be downloaded for free from Propellerhead Shop.
The instructions below assumes that you've first made the External/Internal switch.
The Sampling Input Source & Stereo/Mono Switcher Patch:
You can download the "mrfprod_Default.reason" file here or follow the instructions below.
My default patch uses the A/B Audio & CV Switch and the ReMark Rack Divider, both which can be downloaded for free from Propellerhead Shop.
The instructions below assumes that you've first made the External/Internal switch.
1. Switch to the back and create a new A/B Switch named "Input" and a new Spider Audio unit, named "Stereo / Mono". |
2. Move L & R cables from the Source switch outputs to the Input switch outputs. |
3. Connect Source switch outputs to the stereo/mono spider split inputs. |
4. Connect the first L&R split outputs to Input Switch input A L&R. |
5. Connect the next two splitter L&R outputs to the merge sections first two Left inputs. |
6. And finally, connect the Stereo/Mono spider's Left merge output to Left Input B on the Input switch. |
The final result! |
There you have it! Switch easily between a stereo or mono signal, from an internal or external sound source!
If you found this useful, please leave a comment! :)
Thursday, February 23, 2017
Play!
The Moog Sub Phatty is a lovely little synth, and it amazes me every time I use it! I got one last september but I didn't do any (complete) music with it until now! Better late than... more late. :)
Enjoy!
The song is called "Play!", and was made with the Phatty only, except for drums.
Enjoy!
Tuesday, February 7, 2017
DYI Project: Sound absorption panels
After wanting sound absorption panels for a long time (years!), I finally got the opportunity to build a couple to place on the wall behind my studio monitors. So, here's my recipe for 8 absorption panels, with a total size of 615 * 1195 * 70 mm each. I do apologize for the blurry and dark pictures... still getting to know my new camera! ;)
I choose to build the panels using flax(linseed) insulation panels instead of fiberglass or rockwool, as the latter are not that environmental friendly, safe to handle or healthy to have in a living room.
For the flax insulation panels, I found these absorption coefficient values, stated by the manufacturer (not verified):
What you need for the job:
I measured the insulation panels and they were actually 1140 mm tall and not 1170 mm as specified! The width was correct though.
To get a good fit inside the frame, I subtracted 10 mm in both X and Y dimensions.
I cut the boards in 45 degree angles, so the tall sides were 1186 mm on the 'outside' (1130 mm 'inside') and the short sides were cut in 616 mm on the 'outside' (560 mm 'inside').
I pre-drilled holes for the screws, to minimize risk of wood cracking, put some wood glue in between and put 1 screw in the middle from one side, and 2 from the other side. This way the frame gets really sturdy.
The final result! Looks pretty good, and a lot of room reflections are gone. Next mission is to find a fitting carpet to place on the floor to get rid of a bit vertical reflections. Much more could be done to the room, but remember... this is still our living room! :D
A big thanks to my friend Tobias for driving to and from the hardware store, and building the first panel!
Kisses to my pregnant girlfriend for putting up with my audiophilia!
I hope you found this post useful!
For the flax insulation panels, I found these absorption coefficient values, stated by the manufacturer (not verified):
125Hz | 250Hz | 500Hz | 1000Hz | 2000Hz | 4000Hz | |
50mm | 0,2 | 0,45 | 0,70 | 0,80 | 0,90 | 0,95 |
100mm | 0,65 | 0,75 | 0,75 | 0,85 | 0,90 | 0,95 |
150mm | 0,80 | 0,90 | 0,90 | 0,90 | 0,90 | 1,0 |
What you need for the job:
- 8 insulation panels
- Flax panels, 70 * 565 * 1170 mm.
- 7-8 pieces of wooden boards 28 * 70 * 4200
- Depending on available board length at the warehouse, do the math about length and best cutting measurements. (I bought 8 of these boards)
- a Mitre saw
- Screws 4,0 * 50 mm
- Staple gun and 6 mm staples
- Bigger staples for hanger wire mounting
- Hanger wire
- Some nice pieces of cloth
- Electric drill
- Electric screw driver
The must-have tools, besides electric drill and screwdriver. |
I measured the insulation panels and they were actually 1140 mm tall and not 1170 mm as specified! The width was correct though.
To get a good fit inside the frame, I subtracted 10 mm in both X and Y dimensions.
I cut the boards in 45 degree angles, so the tall sides were 1186 mm on the 'outside' (1130 mm 'inside') and the short sides were cut in 616 mm on the 'outside' (560 mm 'inside').
Not cutting audio this time. |
I pre-drilled holes for the screws, to minimize risk of wood cracking, put some wood glue in between and put 1 screw in the middle from one side, and 2 from the other side. This way the frame gets really sturdy.
Use a previously built frame to support building of others. |
Three screws per corner. Start with the single screw, but do not tighten it until the other two screws are in place. This to prevent misalignment. |
Some pieces of wood looked like this, or worse. Face those pieces to the inside of the frame. |
The panel fitting nicely into the frame! |
Did some weight reduction on one of the frames. |
A neat and tight corner. |
I placed the hanger staples at 23 cm from the top. |
Stretch the wire between the staples, pinch it in place with the hammer, and tie a small knot at each end. |
The wire will flex a certain amount, giving 16 cm to the top when supporting it's own weight, making it an easy task to place the wall hook and get all panels at the same height. |
The final result! Looks pretty good, and a lot of room reflections are gone. Next mission is to find a fitting carpet to place on the floor to get rid of a bit vertical reflections. Much more could be done to the room, but remember... this is still our living room! :D
A big thanks to my friend Tobias for driving to and from the hardware store, and building the first panel!
Kisses to my pregnant girlfriend for putting up with my audiophilia!
I hope you found this post useful!
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