Tuesday, February 7, 2017

DYI Project: Sound absorption panels

After wanting sound absorption panels for a long time (years!), I finally got the opportunity to build a couple to place on the wall behind my studio monitors. So, here's my recipe for 8 absorption panels, with a total size of 615 * 1195 * 70 mm each. I do apologize for the blurry and dark pictures... still getting to know my new camera! ;)

I choose to build the panels using flax(linseed) insulation panels instead of fiberglass or rockwool, as the latter are not that environmental friendly, safe to handle or healthy to have in a living room.

For the flax insulation panels, I found these absorption coefficient values, stated by the manufacturer (not verified):

125Hz250Hz500Hz1000Hz2000Hz4000Hz
50mm0,20,450,700,800,900,95
100mm0,650,750,750,850,900,95
150mm0,800,900,900,900,901,0


What you need for the job:




The must-have tools, besides electric drill and screwdriver.

I measured the insulation panels and they were actually 1140 mm tall and not 1170 mm as specified! The width was correct though.

To get a good fit inside the frame, I subtracted 10 mm in both X and Y dimensions.
I cut the boards in 45 degree angles, so the tall sides were 1186 mm on the 'outside' (1130 mm 'inside') and  the short sides were cut in 616 mm on the 'outside' (560 mm 'inside').



Not cutting audio this time.

I pre-drilled holes for the screws, to minimize risk of wood cracking, put some wood glue in between and put 1 screw in the middle from one side, and 2 from the other side. This way the frame gets really sturdy.

Use a previously built frame to support building of others.

Three screws per corner. Start with the single screw, but do not tighten it until the other two screws are in place. This to prevent misalignment.

Some pieces of wood looked like this, or worse. Face those pieces to the inside of the frame.

The panel fitting nicely into the frame!

Did some weight reduction on one of the frames.
Depending on the cloth pattern I used different methods to cover the back side. The one in the picture above was clearly the best option ('the double wrap'). The other method was to cut out a single sheet as big as the back side, and staple it in place before putting in the insulation piece in and mounting the main cloth.
Cutting the cloth this way made it simpler to get a nice fold in the corners. Begin win the backside corner, making a 45ยบ fold pretty much aligned with the wood cuts. Then stretch the cloth from the middle of the short side outwards, and then finally stretching the cloth from the front side corner to get a tight fit with no slop.

A neat and tight corner.

I placed the hanger staples at 23 cm from the top.

Stretch the wire between the staples, pinch it in place with the hammer, and tie a small knot at each end.

The wire will flex a certain amount, giving 16 cm to the top when supporting it's own weight, making it an easy task to place the wall hook and get all panels at the same height.




The final result! Looks pretty good, and a lot of room reflections are gone. Next mission is to find a fitting carpet to place on the floor to get rid of a bit vertical reflections. Much more could be done to the room, but remember... this is still our living room! :D

A big thanks to my friend Tobias for driving to and from the hardware store,  and building the first panel!

Kisses to my pregnant girlfriend for putting up with my audiophilia!

I hope you found this post useful!

Sunday, August 28, 2016

Pitch Black - Part 1 & 2

I'ts time for another mrfprod release! A two-part tune called Pitch Black.
Enjoy!


Monday, May 30, 2016

Live on stage: We Could Build An Empire

Last Saturday I got to do the live mixing for a gig by "We Could Build An Empire", at RoQ in Stockholm city.
The band played 9 songs total, and the gig lasted about an hour.

A live mix is just as live as the band playing, and when I do live mixing I'm continuously micro tweaking volumes and EQ to make everything sound as good and balanced as possible in the moment. All sound should be pleasant for the ears even at loud volumes, and at best you shouldn't have to wear ear plugs. Unfortunately there are few live mixing technicians that seems to share my opinion, or even care how it really sounds.

You can visit the band's web page at http://www.wcbae.com.


Tweaking from start to end

Sunday, November 29, 2015

Reason Tips & Tricks - Sampling Input Switch

I just came up with this simple but yet useful(?) patch in my default rack, and it allows you to quickly switch sampling input between your sound card's inputs and Reason's Output. This can be useful when sampling a Reason made sound into another sample based Reason instrument for further tweaking.
My sound card (Focusrite USB6) only has 2 audio input, so you can probably make some alteration to this patch if your sound card has more than 2 inputs.

This patch uses the A/B Audio and CV Switch rack extension which can be downloaded for free from the Propellerhead Shop.




The Sampling Input Switcher Patch:

Step 1
Step 2
Step 3 & 4
Step 5 & 6
  1. Below the Master Section, create an A/B Audio & CV Switch and a Spider Audio Merger & Splitter, and give them some useful names.







  2. Switch to the back and disconnect the default Master Output and Sampling input wiring.










  3. Connect Audio I/O port 1-2 to A/B Switch Input A L&R.
  4. Connect Audio I/O Sampling Input L&R to A/B Switch Output L&R.











  5. Connect Master Section Master Out L&R to Spider Splitter inputs L&R.
  6. Connect any of the Spider's outputs to A/B Switch input B L&R, and also to Audio I/O Audio Output port 1-2.



Now you can switch between sampling inputs, quick and easy without having to make any manual patching. Save this patch preferably to your Default.reason file.

I hope you found this useful! :)

Saturday, November 28, 2015

Repeat

Once in a while I make a new song. This one was just finished! This one is not fighting the loudness war, but if you have a capable sound system you can play this one very loud! :D (tried and tested @ Studio Blue, Stockholm/Sweden)

Enjoy! :)

Thursday, November 19, 2015

Keep your Reason project organized

I've been a Propellerhead Reason user for many years and I really enjoy making music with it, but it can get a bit messy and it's easy to get lost in the rack. Therefore I would like to share my way of keeping the mixer, rack and sequencer clean and organized! :)



Standard Template:
I made a custom template for all new projects. It consists of my standard setup of master send effects and also pre-made columns per instrument type:
Standard Send Effects

Send Effects:
1. The Echo
2. RV7000 1
3. RV7000 2
4. RV-7 1
5. RV-7 2





















Standard Rack Columns
Rack Columns (L to R):
Drums
Bass
Synth
Acoustic
Vocals

I use the free Rack Extension plugin "Remark" for naming the columns, and for naming and marking other stuff inside the rack. I never put any instruments below the send effects in the "Master Section column" as it's "reserved" for effects only.


Channel & Sequencer Order:
I place the SSL mixer channels and Sequencer tracks in the same basic order as the Rack Columns. Drums and percussions goes to the far left,  followed by bass, synths, acoustic instruments and vocals.


Color Coding:
I use my own standardized way to color code instruments and automations as this makes it easier for me to quickly find the instrument I'm looking for, especially in the sequencer. I also use the same colors when I use other DAW's such as Reaper.

My choice of colors are (by the names given in Reason):

Red - for drums and percussions.
Steel Blue - for bass sounds.
Moss Green - for synths
Kelly Green - for acoustic instruments like piano, strings etc.
Orange - for electric guitars.
Lilac - for vocals or choirs.
Wheat - for all automations

By coloring all automations in the same color makes them stand out from the midi and audio clips so they can easily be spotted or ignored depending on what you are searching for in the sequencer.
In Reason 8 be also sure to check "Auto-color Tracks and Channels" under Options menu to keep channel strip and sequencer track colors the same!


BUS naming
Naming:
Keep the names of the channels short and informational. If I make a bus in the SSL I will always give it a name in UPPERCASE.

Naming Automation Clips
I also name all automation clips, so I quickly can see what parameter it's changing.

Sometimes I also name midi and audio clips but not all the time.













Blocks:
Blocks as markers
Blocks can be useful sometimes, but when making complex automations or transitions between blocks it's often better to not put the clips into blocks. Another way of using blocks is to use them as markers for different pars of your song.





Combinators:
Combinators for everything
Every instrument, I put inside a combinator. It's rather seldom I do not hook an instrument up to another unit, such as a mixer or arpeggiator, and keeping everything inside a combinator makes everything a
bit cleaner in the rack, and also gives the possibility to save the instrument as a combinator patch.
I also use the Combinators rotaries and buttons for automation, and have the combinator as a sequencer track. Though, I hope Propellerhead will release a bigger combinator with several more knobs and buttons as just four of each is not enough when making a bit more advanced patches.








Dual screens:
If you are not using dual screens yet, think again. ;) I always put the SSL and Rack on the left screen, and have the sequencer window on the right.




This is the basic standard of how I set up things when using Reason, but of course it depends a bit on the project itself.  I hope this will be helpful in your future projects! :)







Thursday, November 5, 2015

New release - Anology

Analogy is now released to the public on my Soundcloud page! Enjoy! :)